Key: AdminGlobal ModMod. Print Thread. Sometimes it comes on including blower inside and runs for a half-minute and then shuts off. It waits 5 minutes and starts up, and then usually runs until it has cooled the house down. Other times, it runs outside, and makes more vibration, which I can hear in the house; at the same time, the fan in the house is blowing room temp air, and the discharge air from the unit outside is not warm like it should be, when it's pulling heat out of the house.
When I hear it, I shut it off at the thermostat and then turn it back on after the waiting period. It then will cool fine. I was told that the copeland scroll compressor in it can actually run backwards.
Why is My Central Air Conditioner Turning On and Off Rapidly?
Could it be doing that when it's running outside, but not cooling? Or, is it not possible for it to run backwards? I don't want to put a lot of money in it, being almost 20 years old, but if this sounds like a problem that is not more than a couple hundred dollars, it would probably be worth fixing it.
Any ideas out there? This sounds like a problem that some techs may not know how to diagnose. Please advise. Thanks, Bill. If the outdoor unit has an external timer it could be the problem or possibly the thermostat has malfunctioned.
Scroll compressors can run backwards if they are 3 phase not a normal residential power supply and are usually trashed after a short time of running in reverse.Igram tool
It takes some time, maybe 5 to 10 minutes, for an AC to turn out very cold air. Also, short cycling is not good for the compressor, and perhaps, even with the timer, it could still be slugging liquid, which would account for a loud rattling racket outside. There's your problem A Carrier 58SSC is listed as an upflow furnace, it just can't cool well at all. OOps, you got me there. Yes, I picked up the wrong number when I gave the model number. I have replaced the capacitor, and the relay, and a tech jumped the delay timer years ago, because it went bad, and I have a delay built into my Honeywell setback timer, so he said it really wasn't necessary.
I guess he was right, because if it's turned off manually, even if you switch it back on immediately, it won't restart for at least 5 minutes. Today, the unit ran for at least 10 minutes and never did any cooling. I could hear the compressor running, along with the fan outside, but the air from the ducts in the house never got cool, just room temp.
Is there a part in the compressor that would allow it to run, without circulating the freon? I'm having a tech come out to check it out. I guess if the compressor is still functioning, and it's some other part, it would be worth spending a little money on it. Since it's a 12 SEER, would it make sense at this point to go to a more efficient unit, or would it really make that much difference?
Could the thermostat cause problems like this? Thanks to both of you for your replies Bill. Efficiencies haven't risen much in the standard units, so not much to gain without using the very high efficiency units which would require considerable replacement.
Get a tech to view whether the charge is very low or the compressor broke internally but still runs to make noise. Quote: Is there a part in the compressor that would allow it to run, without circulating the freon?Question: AC Unit comes on for short time and clicks off and then back on and then off again.
It continues to do this until I shut it off. We are camped at a commercial campground and it is very hot. The AC unit has been running a lot.Ac kicking on and off ( FIXED ) pressure fluctuation ( solved ) Recharge car ac. pressure to high?
I thought maybe it was freezing up and ice was forming on condenser coils as it is also very humid. However, when I left it off for 3 or 4 hours and turned it back on it ran OK for a short period of time and then started the on again off again thing. I think you might have a burned, loose connection in your V supply that is arking and getting hot. It will run the fan, but when the compressor comes on it will shut everything off and mimic the symptoms you have explained. I suggest you have it checked ASAP to prevent the possibility of damage or fire.
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Jul 25, AC Unit - on and off again by: Mary Robbie, When AC unit has been off for a while and you turn it on, it runs ok for a while until trailer is cooled then when it needs to come back on is when the problem starts of on again, off again. Sometimes is sounds like the compressor tries to come on and cannot and then clicks off. Sometimes the compressor does come on, runs for a minute or two and kicks off then in a minute or so comes back on and then off again.Air conditioner starts then stops after only a few seconds Then it does it again What could be wrong?
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Unanswered Questions. Air Conditioning and Coolant. Heating Ventilating and Air Conditioning. Wiki User Hi: What you are seeing is comonly refered to as short cycling in the A. Low on Refrigerant Inside cooling coils frozen up, you should see ice accumulation on very big line going back to unit if freeze up exist and sometimes even the compressor itself will be frozen with ice or very very cold.
Continued use of this system without proper repairs will ultimately give you high dollar utility bill and complete failure in near future. Hope this helps: Jimiwane. Related Questions Asked in Search Engine Optimization Could the distributor be the problem when the engine quits runnig every 15 seconds on a 3o2 efi engine?
If you are saying the engine starts and runs for 15 seconds and dies and then starts again for another 15 seconds and dies. You might want to check if there is a fuel restriction somewhere filter or pump. Could be a plugged fuel filter. Asked in Car Batteries When you engage the overdrive then after a few seconds it starts to flick on the dash board what will be the problem?
It only takes a minute to sign up. I have Mazda CX7. After a while it starts to engage for few seconds and than back off for about But it have not made any difference. It seems that sometimes it decides to start blowing slightly colder air while other times it just blows hot air.
After taking it to Pep Boy's for diagnostics. It turned out to be a relay. Once relay was repaired it turned out that I overcharged the system. Now I taking it to service for evac and recharge. If I took it to get it diagnosed in the first place it would have cost me whole lot less.
Your description points to a gas leak, or a control electronics fault. You need to have your AirCon system checked over and possibly re-charged by a service quality machine. The way to go is an AirCon system scan to isolate the electrical fault s.
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One possible reason for the clutch to disengage like that is to protect the compressor from surging. How confident are you that the amount of refrigerant in the system is correct? How much pressure are you seeing on the high side? I've seen it where the low end pressure will do exactly as you are saying, both in not cooling very well and with the cycling of the clutch.
When I started the car and clutch was engaged it showed around 25psi at about 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Well, 25 psi would be considered low for most applications.
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Results 1 to 4 of 4. Thread: Home AC Compressor won't start, just hums for 2 seconds then stops Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Home AC Compressor won't start, just hums for 2 seconds then stops The compressor tries to start a 2 second hum then stops. Then 25 seconds later, tries to start a 2 second hum then stops, and continues The fan motor works fine and spins freely when triggered.
All equaled up correctly. Ran a scratch test for ground outs off the compressor and no continuity issues. Contacter Block is fine. Pulls down when triggered and no problems. So it seems the electrical side of the unit is OK. BTW, I am an electrician. Does this Copeland Scroll Compressor have a built-in protection which could be causing this lock up due to a lack of R or am I going to need a new compressor?
I know the AC unit is old and probably at its End Of Life but this house is going to be foreclosed on and I need a "band-aid on a bullet wound" for the next 90 days. Thanks so much for your help Did you amp it when its trying to start?
Sounds like she's locked down. If a hard start didn't get it going its probably toast. Did you check the terminal connections on the compressor?
Seen plenty of fried and loose terminals that ohm out fine but fail under a load. As was suggested, after inspecting the terminal connections are good, use a clamp meter and set to max hold to see what the amp draw is. If you reach that amperage it is toast. Assuming everything else is fine and capacitor, kick start is installed correctly. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of it.
I believe the DIY diagnostics this thread would require, exeed what is permitted by the rules. Thread closed.Automotive air conditioning compressors require specific types of lubricants. If the wrong type of compressor oil or the wrong viscosity compressor oil is used, it may damage the compressor.
PAO Polyalphaolefin oil can sometimes be used as a substitute for certain PAG oils if the compressor manufacturer approves it. This can lead to poor lubrication and premature compressor failure.
Universal compressor oils should NOT be used in Ryf applications. The following is a list of recommended lubricants by compressor manufacturer.
A low oil level can starve the compressor for oil and lead to compressor failure. Too much oil can hurt cooling performance. Our advice is this: Why take a chance using a universal oil when you can just as easily use the correct PAG oil?
Every compressor manufacturer I've ever interviewed says the same thing: Uuse the specific type of oil specified for their compressor. In most cases, it is some type of PAG oil. If an oil is used that does not meet those requirements fairly closely, it might cause wear and friction issues. Eventually, this could cause the compressor to fail. You should not intermix different viscosities because the viscosity of the mixture may be "out of range" for the appliction for a number of reasons.
Thicker oils are typically specified for heavier bearing and seal loads, but also require slightly greater bearing clearances. If a thinner oil is used, it may not provide adequate lubrication.
Likewise, an application that specifies a thinner oil to minimize friction and drag may not receive adequate lubrication if a thicker viscosity oil is used.
The universal oil will be a compromise blend that fails to meet anyof the OEM specifications. It will be too thick for some applications, and too thin for other applications.
Compressor runs for about 5 seconds and blows the breaker
A universal oil may work okay in some compressors, but not others. So why take a chance? The reason why some people promote universal oils is because it is simplier for auto parts stores and shops to stock a single type of oil instead of a number of different oils.Air conditioning pressure sensors, also known as AC switches, turn off a car's air conditioning system whenever the refrigerant pressure reaches a lower extreme.
This not only signals the need for a recharge of refrigerant, but also saves the compressor from running without the proper lubrication.
If the AC pressure switch is bypassed, then the compressor can potentially freeze up from a lack of fluid and lubrication, requiring expensive work to be done by a professional mechanic. Turn your car's air conditioning system on with the engine running. Open the doors to the vehicle, preventing the air conditioning from cycling off.
If the air conditioning cuts off intermittently, then the air conditioning pressure switch or sensor may not be working correctly. Open your car's hood with the air conditioner still running.
Locate the evaporator, which is a block or grille-type component connected via hoses and tubes from the compressor, which has a belt and pulley system. Feel the two tubes leading from the evaporator to the firewall. If the tubes are not cold to the touch, then there is no refrigerant traveling through them, meaning that your refrigerant is either too low or the pressure sensor is not working correctly.
Check the pressure of the air conditioning system by attaching a low pressure gauge from a refrigerant recharge kit to the low pressure fitting, located between the accumulator and the compressor and marked with a capital "L.La diagnostica per immagini nellemergenza
If the pressure is at an adequate level, then your pressure sensor may be failing. Locate the OBD II port on your vehicle, which is typically located within a few feet of the steering column. Many cars have the OBD II port below and to the left of the steering column, while other models have the port on the back side of the center console. Plug the OBD II scanner into the port and turn on the car's ignition switch to the accessories position. If the air conditioning pressure sensor or switch is faulty, then the OBD II code will relay that information to you through the scanner.
Remove the air conditioning pressure sensor and test the electrical connection leading to the sensor from your vehicle's electrical harness. Touch the probes of the multimeter to the electrical harness end of the electrical connection and turn the ignition key to the accessories position.
If the sensor's electrical connection is working correctly, the multimeter should read between 4. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
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